Uganda: dreams, a boda, & a dance party nigina

My short trip to Uganda held so much. Waking up this morning in Kigali, my mind went immediately to the places, people, smells, and tastes that I experienced over the last week. The adventure began in Kampala, a huge, sprawling city with bodas (motorcycles) darting in every direction, huge trucks carrying cargo, and people selling and buying on every corner. I met up with Max Trzcinski who's been living there for the last 3 months working with an organization called Ember Arts. I couldn't have asked for a better host, friend, and great thinker. Here's a taste of the journey...

bus ride to Gulu, eating some chapati bought from a roadside vendor. yum!

a 7 hour bus ride, complete with about 15 stops, roadside goat-on-a-stick vendors, and a bridge ride over the Nile, led us to Gulu, Uganda. Gulu was one of the many places once torn apart by genocide, war, and the enslavement of children as soldiers not even a decade ago. Driving along the red dirt roads filled with markets and families going about their days, I kept imagining what it must have looked like and felt like during the war. I knew my short visit could not even been to touch the surface of all that is held there, all I could do was to keep my eyes open to receive what I could as I passed through. 

The majority of our time was spent at Restore International's Leadership Academy. I've heard of Restore's work and I couldn't believe I was seeing it in person. The current academy just burst with life - the students were so warm, welcoming, and since Max had been there before, they quickly came up to him, eager to greet their old friend. We also got to go up the road to see the land that Restore has purchased for the construction of their academy. The space they have now is limited but this new facility will house classrooms, dorms, sports facilities, cafeteria, and more for the youth of Gulu. Standing on that land, I felt so inspired by the dreams of many that made it possible. I thought of the dreams I've had in my life for things and found new excitement to do something about it when I get home. It's funny how dreams are contagious.

Max looking out on the new property where Restore will build their school.

The boda: ok mom, cover your ears for this one. Max and I decided to rent a boda (motorcyle) for 2 days while we were in Gulu (don't worry mom, we had helmets). Max was our fearless driver (seriously, he rocked). My favorite boda moment had to be the rain day. While out visiting the Restore academy (probably a few miles out of town), the rain rolled in and we were stuck waiting for it to pass. After a couple hours of waiting, the decision was made to just ride through it. Clutching my bag and the back of the boda, we took off through the rain. I felt alive. Max, like a nascar driver, moved around trucks, through puddles, and on dirt roads like a pro. By the time we reached town, we were soaked, literally caked with red mud, and waaayyy amped on our boda adventure. I miss the boda.

the boda

On our last night back in Kampala I got to meet the Acholi women that Max has worked with for the last 3 months. Up on a hill, looking over Kampala, the women of the Acholi quarters taught us how to party. After eating at Mama Christine's home (my favorite meal in Uganda for sure), we walked down to a community building where the women welcomed us with the Acholi yell (I can only describe it as a super high pitched yodle) and 7 hours of singing and dancing as they thanked and said goodbye, for now, to Max. They do these "nigina" celebrations weekly and each time they celebrate a different person in the community - this week it was Max. I can say without hesitation, I have never seen anything like this in my life. A DJ bumped the tunes and women with babies on their backs and older mamas taught me how to shake it Acholi style. At one point, Mama Ester, one of the leaders of the group, told me, “Shake your body!" I quickly followed orders. I hope I get to return there some day. I can see why James, the founder of Ember Arts, and Max fell in love with that community.

a picture of Mama Esther from the Ember Arts blog

Back in Kigali, I get to spend a week with some PLNU grads living and working here with an organization called Edify. I can't believe how many PLNU people I've connected with on this side of the globe! I feel so alive and grateful to have seen so much in such a short amount of time. My hands are open, I wonder what another week will hold...